Mountain Clients

Five Die on Grand Paradiso (15 May 2008)

April 30th, 2008: Five French mountain clients, Bruno Paladini, Colomb Christian, Sophie Chourtier, Christophe Gandon and Brisset Francois were killed in an all consuming avalanche on the Grand Paradiso in Italy. All consuming, well their UIAGM guide survived.

Six Swiss Soldiers Killed Avalanched (15 May 2008)

In July, 2007, 14 Swiss soldiers were taken on an ascent of the Jungfrau by their UIAGM guides. In the ensuing avalanche, six of the soldiers were killed. Their guides face a criminal enquiry. This avoidable tragedy mirrors, to a degree, a fatal accident on the Aiguille Vert in July, 1964, when nine aspirant guides were taken into slab avalanche conditions by five UIAGM guides; instructors from ENSA, Chamonix. The nine clients and five qualified guides died when they were all avalanched down the Cordier Couloir.

Fatal Accident to British Soldier (2 Aug 2005)

Using conflicting reports, apparently a British soldier, on an adventure course, was killed when a serac (wall of ice) partially collapsed on the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Five other soldiers escaped serious injury. Military, alpine adventure courses have for some years now been led by a UIAGM / IFMGA guide. Interestingly, in this particular fatal incident, a guide has not been mentioned. This particular route on the Mont Blanc du Tacul has claimed many lives over the years through avalanches usually, because climbers, for some reason, are still on the face in the heat of the afternoon.

Switzerland Canyoning Disaster (29 Dec 2004)

Adventure sports in the Alps were brash and cocky until July 27, 1999. On that tragic day, a group of young tourists, led by gung-ho mountain guides, who ignored warning of an impending storm (nothing new there then). They were caught in an avalanche of stones and logs brought down by a flash flood and 21 young people died... The memorial to the 21 dead, is at Saxetbach just three miles up the Saxetbach valley from Interlaken. Twenty one towers of stone ornament a peaceful garden. There is also a 30-foot wide notice board filed with love letters from family, peoms from partners, and sad notes from friends...

http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/switz/disaster.htm

Experience is "Key" - Tragedy in the Sierra Nevada (11 Oct 2004)

A warning that these hills are not benign as it sometimes seems, especially in the spring, came on 5th/6th May when there were 3 deaths, 1 comotase victim and 6 injured in varying states of hypothermia. All in one incident!

The party were all from Holland and contained 10 women and 1 man, all led by a female dutch guide. They had booked a trekking holiday with a dutch company called "Intertrek", who had run tours to the Sierras for a few years. They set off from Trevelez, the highest village in Spain (1600 metres) at 10 am bound for the Poqueira Hut at 2500 metres via the Alta de Chorillo, a point on the south ridge of Mulhacen. They had been warned by the hotel owner in Trevelez that conditions were very poor with high winds, snow higher up and poor visibility. Moreover, the guardian of the Poqueira Hut, Raphael Quintero, a man who we have met on many occasions during this winters courses, also advised them to consider another easier, less exposed route, avoiding having to try to reach the hut. For some unknown and yet to be determined reason, the guide and the party set off.

After 2 hours ascent 2 of the women decided that the going was too hard and heeded the words of advice from the locals. They turned back and descended to Trevelez. They were smart! The rest continued upwards and arrived at the high ridge of Alta de Chorillo between 16.30 and 17.00. At this point they were met by the full fury of the south westerly gale. Winds of up to 130km per hour with driving snow pounded at them. The temperatures were well below freezing even without the windchill effect. The group met a party of well equipped Basque mountaineers at this point who had wisely given up their attempt on Mulhacen and decided to seek refuge in the Poqueira Hut.

By 19.00 the hut guardian, who was expecting the dutch party, became increasingly concerned. By 20.00 he called for assistance from the Guardia Civil Rescue Service. With over half a metre of new snow and the storm still raging the Basque party of 6 persons went out to search for the dutch. By 3 in the morning 2 of the dutch were found just below in Alta de Chorillo with advanced stages of hypothermia. They were both dead. The others were eventually found one by one. One was rescued only 50 metres from the hut, which she could not find! Others were strung out up to half a kilometre away. By 7 in the morning another body had been found near the door of the hut and the rest were all accounted for. They were given food and warmth and evacuated when the rescue helicopters could finally land at 1 in the afternoon of Thursday 6th May.

The dead and injured were taken to Capileira and hence to the emergency trauma unit in Granada.

Unbelievable, I know. None were equipped with winter clothing (one had only shorts and a lightweight fleece). Some had eye injuries as a result of neither having goggles nor sunglasses.

The repercussions are starting now. All the Andalucian papers are full of the inquest and the events of those terrible 2 days. The inquest will be held in Orgiva and the bodies cannot be returned to Holland until the inquest has been held. So far the guide concerned has not been questioned publicly. Whatever could she say? There's really no excuse is there? A wrongly equipped party led by an inexperienced guide who had not been to the mountain area before...........an accident waiting to happen?

By Richard Hartley of Spanish Highs Mountain Guides, Sierra Nevada, Spain.

14 July, 2003 - 6 Dead (26 Jul 2003)

According to several news media, a group of 11 climbers and their UIAGM guide were caught in a massive ice avalanche at the Junction of the Grand Mulet and the Upper Bossons Glaciers. Six if the group died. The Junction, along with the massive serac wall half way up the Grand Mulet on the left, are known danger areas especially during the midday, afternoon heat.

Many climbers have been overwhelmed in these two areas. In one such accident fifteen years ago, 14 climbers were killed in a single avalanche of ice. Spreading large parties out (going through these areas quckly in 2's) whilst passing through these areas will reduce the threat.

Lifeline (26 May 2003)

In the spring of 1999, Peter Terbush and Kerry Pyle were enjoying a little mountain climbing on Glacier Point in the Yosemite National Park. It was a beutiful sunny Sunday evening. Peter, a student at Western State College in Colorado, was standing on level ground below Kerry - fastened to his climbing rope. Suddenly, there was an awful, thunderous sound. It was a rockslide coming his way. Tons of rock came hurtling down around Peter. Kerry was high enough to avoid the slide.

Peter could have run from the oncoming rocks, but in the process he would have torn Kerry off the stone wall far above him. That would have surely resulted in Kerry's death. What did Peter do? Did he cut the rope and run, taking a leaf out of the world acclaimed book: Touching the Void? What would you do? Having tied to someone else with a rope - what would you do?

Peter did not run. With amazing courage, he grasped the rope with all his strength and accepted his own loss of life so that his friend might live.

Later, when his lifeless, broken body was dug out from the massive pile of rocks, this discovery was made: Peter's hands, which had kept the rope steady for Kerry, were still clenching his friend's lifeline!

Helicopter Rescue (30 Sep 2003)

On the afternoon of Thu, 6 March, 2003, a helicopter rescue took place high on the right flank of Sierra Toix West at Calpe, Spain. A climber, part of a 'services climbing course' received head injuries from falling rock(s) (it is not known if he was wearing a helmet and certainly no helmet was visible on the injured man whilst he was strapped helplessly, to the rescue strecher) and a rescue team was called.

After two approaches, the helicoper finally hovered some twenty five feet above the group (six or seven people) of rescuers and the injured climber and the strecher were clipped to a cable that had been lowered. Suddenly, a large, loose sheet of thin plastic (thermal blanket) rose into the air on the updraft and was sucked into the helicopter rotors with a bang. Fortunately, one rescuer had the presence of mind to unclip the strecher as the helicopter staggered away with an obvious problem. The group as a whole, in such a confined space,  were very fortunate that the helicopter did not crash onto them causing a catastrophic disaster.

Fortunately, the helicopter landed without incident some 1,000 feet lower on an empty road. Shortly aftrewards as the ground rescuers prepared to lower the injured climber, the helicopter restarted and effected a perfect rescue.  Two hours prior to the accident, members of the same group had to callout to climbers beneath them regarding falling rocks that they had knocked down. The wearing of helmets should be mandatory when climbing, and if involved in a helicopter rescue, it is essential that all loose objects are held down or packed away. A similar account of this rescue was printed (sent in by Dennis M) in the Costa Blanca News on the 19 March, 2003.

Finally, The Book... (5 Feb 2003)

On the 13 Sept, 2002, Lynda Woodroffe wrote in responce to my answering e-mail: "You did not cause me discomfort at all - please do not appòlogise. Any discomfort is due to the loss and the cause of it. I am very pleased (as I said) to have found your website."

"Please feel free to use the information - I have written an unpublished book about climbing/the whole scenario surrounding Gerry,s death and have all the details of the court-case, expert opinions etc. There were some suspicious goings on, I have to say, which are revealed in the book. I have not edited it yet - as I wrote it some time ago and was rushing it a bit after the court-case. It brought out a very useful catharsis."

In responce to my comment: ´It was the extremely long time 1990-1997 (between the accident and the court-case) that intrigued me´, that Lynda responded: ´We were insured by the BMC as was Smiler Cuthbertson. I knew that something had happened to cause the fall and wanted the police report. I, we, my friends, a French friend and my solicitor wrote to/rang up the Chamonix police but could not get the police to send the report. So we did not have a leg to stand on.

I had 3 years to make a case against the (BMG) guide (according to the insurance and legal rules). I had Daniel 8 months after Gerry was killed, so things were put on the back burner. Some political friends suggested to me that I press on with the case and told me to get my MP to get the police report out of France. He called the Foreign Office and they had 3 attempts to get the report. On, the third attempt, it arrived - this made it 3 years and about 3weeks after the accident!!! Is that suspicious or what????´ The time was extended deliberately I believe..."

Finally, The Truth (18 Jan 2003)

I was some what shocked to receive an e-mail form, Lynda Woodroffe on the 12 Sep, 2002: "I found your website whilst wasting time on the internet and looking to see how many times my late husband - Gerry Hedley came up. I was pleased to find your interesting texts and sad to be remined of the wastage of life through inecessary accidents. Gerry,s and my son, Daniel, is now 11 years old. " (See Guide not to Blame) on this site regarding Gerry Hedley and his BMG guide Smiler Cuthertson,s avoidable mountaineering accident.

I had tried to contact Lynde, to no avail, when the details of the accident finally became public knowledge in 1997 - seven years after her husbands death.

Eiger Sanction 2 (7 Nov 2005)

The question therefore as to be asked, if the independent guide was in fact - not tied to the clients, why was Mr Davies informed that the guidein fact did fall and was seriously injured? Why, was Mr Davies request for his son´s rucksack, climbing equipment never satisfied? So many questions but no real answers.

According to a climbing magazine (Climber or High) in 2001) John Barry and Jan Rowe had recently just enjoyed a climbing holiday together in East Africa. Mr Davies, on the other hand, has apparently, not yet managed to find, meet Mr Rowe (one of the untouchables) over the details (to ask him how he became detached - from his son´s rope - if he was ever attached) of his son´s death since the Eiger accident -thirteen years ago.

Eiger Sanction (27 Sep 2003)

On the 30 November, 2002, I received an email from Bill O´Conner (BMG): ''Let me pick you up on just two points: OTT is not a member of the BMG.Was not, as the company no longer exists, folding after loosing Michael Mathews in May, 199.'' My comment was merely: OTT/IGO 8000/BMG/IFMGA . OTT a founded member of - IGO 8000 which they were).

(Second point) ´Eiger Accident: the guide in charge of the clients who died on the Eiger was in fact an ex-royal marine and an unqualified (being employed by a BMG guide on behalf of  the Survival Club) guide, like yourself (and Mal Duff who had few peers). The only member of the BMG (John Barry)  a qualified guide (also an ex-marine) was in fact (?) not on the mountain at the time of the accident having turned back, several days before with his client (? with his son - surely) during the ascent because he was unhappy about conditions and weather. In this case the unqualified ex-royal marine, there were two of them, continued on and were descending ahead of his clients unroped (!!) when the accident happened. But the important thing to point out is that in both cases no qualified guides were involved in the accident.''  (The BMG guide in question was not even on the mountain when the fatal accident occured having left the mountain days earlier with his client (?) - is contrary to the Swiss police accident report)

Yes, the BMG guide did leave the mountain with - a number of clients including his own -son. But, he came back to the mountain via helicopter and joined the  groups for their final descent on that fatal  morning. The BMG guide was not only on the mountain, he also witnessed the rope decending  just before the fatal slip - guide first (or as Mr O´conner now points out - unroped from their guide), he also witnessed the fall: "Í turned Alison´s head away so that she would not see the entire fall..."

According to The Mail on Sunday (1994) Investagive Journalist, Nick Fielding.  The lead, BMG guide, santioned the leading of two of the three ropes on that fatal day by, as Mr O´Conner put´s it: unqualifed guides. Graham Davies, the father of Phil Davies who died, kept asking me, six years after the accident, how it was possible for the guide to become unroped from his clients (he had been told that Jan Rowe became unattahed from the rope during the fall) as the rope did not break. 'Did the rope come over his head?,' he asked. 'Did he come out of his harness.'? And I was trying to show him how it is possible to come out of a sit-harness. When all along, Mr Davies was being mislead into not knowing the apparant truth, that his son´s rope was not tied to a guide ´qualified or otherwise. The answer is apparently, now all too clear. The BMG guide would have been aware that the fatal party was unrope from - any guide, and yet failed to inform Mr Davies of this when he visited the guide at his North Wales home. Mr Davies, gave me a six page copy of the conversation that took place. 

What is plainly obvious, from Mr O´Conner´s email, there are two types of - unqualified guide in Europe. The unqualified guides who work - for BMG guides (working for gain in Europe) and unqualified guides, who have to be put out of business at all costs... There are apparently, (untouchable) unqualified guides, good friends of BMG guides, and those unqualified guides who were warned that full publicity would be given to any problems that they have...

Mr O´Conner went on.´The BMG member unlike the unqualified ex royal marines had to face a disciplinary committee of the guides association. It was felt that he should have had more input into the actions of the unqualified ex marines. He lost his licence and after a umber of years of not being allowed to work as a guides (?) had to retrain and requalify. The unqualified self appointed guides (like those unqualified, self appointed British climbers/guides who started ISM at Leysin, in Switzerland under the very nose of Swiss authority - page 113 in Dougal haston's 'The Philosphy of Risk', set's it out quite nicely) simply carried on. They came before no disciplinary committee (or Fatal Accident Inquiry), no one questioned their actions they continued to practice (with no publicity from the BMC the sports Governing Body) without reference to others or agreed standards (agreed by whom - certainly not me)." Like the catalogue of errors from start to finish during the 1992 - Eiger Sanction. The 1994 Mail on Sunday article by Nick fielding, is seen in full: http://mountainclients.typepad.com/mountain_clients/eiger-west-face-1992.html

 

Graham and Jennie Davies asked that their son Phillip's climbing equipment be returned, it never was. Apparently, Phillip's rucksack was found, abandoned, on the West Flank of the Eiger in 1998. 

14 Climbers Died in a single Accident (16 Dec 2002)

In July, 1964, five Chamonix Guides took nine aspirant guides (ENSA clients) under instruction, into slab-avalanche conditions high on the Aigulle Verte above the French alpine resort of Chamonix. In the ensuing avalanche, all fourteen were swept down the Cordier Coulior to their deaths

Abseiling Accident

According to a Thread on the Rocfax site, a climber has explained how his climbing partner, who fell whilst abseiling in Zion national Park, methis avoidable death. Apparently, they were tying two ropes together for each abseil with an 'overhand' knot (there has recently been 'official' recognition by the British Mountaineering Council - responsible for safety in climbing in the use, the joining of ropes with knots other than the double-fisherman which is perfectly safe even when tied incorrectly). The two ropes that parted during the fatal abseil apparently had no reminants of a knot in either end. Apparently, the knot had completely unravelled. Too many experienced climbers have died whilst absieling, a manouver where all of the equipment is stressed. Do yourself a favour by tying absiel ropes together by using the double-fisherman knot, a knot that incidentally, is shown tied incorrectly, hapazardly on the front cover of the BMC's booklet of Knots, price £4:00 to non members...

IGO 8000 Statement 4 April, 2002

On the morning of 30 April, 2002, a 38 year old British climber, Peter Legate fell to his death during an expedition to climb Mount Everest. Theavoidable accident, occured while descending fixed ropes from Camp 3 (7,100 meters) on the Lhotse face. Mr Legate who was not roped to a guide, fell into a crevasse from where it was impossible to recover his body. Mr Legate was a member (client) of a commercial expedition operated by Himalayan Guides, a member of International Guiding Operators 8000 (IGO 8000) at the - cuttting edge of Himalayan safety when it come to mountain clients. IGO 8000 will be conducting (another) inquiry into an accident involving one of its clients. IGO 8000, at the leading edge of client safety, has apparently, extended its deepest sympathy to Mr Legate's family. The boss and one of the leaders of Himalayan Guides - Mr Henry Barclay Todd referred to elswhere on the Internet as the Toddfather, was not available (he is reported to be somewhere in Tibet) to comment on the avoidable accident to one of his clients.

It remains to be seen if the British Mountaineering Council will finally - give full publicity to this latest Himalayan Guides/IGO 8000 debacle. Adverse publicity, that has been threatened to other independent mountain guides who have lost not a single client.

BMG Guide - Not To Blame? (11 Feb 2002)

A Scottish Sheriff found that the member of the BMG who took six inexperienced Venture Scouts into avalanche conditions on Aonach More on the 29 December - 1998, was - not to blame for four of their deaths? The guide as usual - survived. The Sheriff did question why the basic practice (for most mountaineers, of leaving details regarding the parties destination - had been disregarded...? Once again, a BMG guide who enticed clients into winter conditions in the face of an avalanche warning, was found to be - not at fault. Unlike his clients and their 'dependents', the guide has continued to work and will continue to do so.

It is certain that the Sheriff, only received 'expert' guidance; information regarding other similar fatal accidents to BMG clients from - other members of the BMG or, the BMC, that other autonomous mountaineering organisation.

The Association of Mountain Clients offered the Sheriff - alternative arguments by post but, they were - for some reason, not called to give alternative information about other avoidable deaths to paying, BMG clients...

Because of the delaying tactics employed as usual, the relatives have just seven months left in which to make a claim against the BMG's - comprehensive insurance scheme.? After another BMG Fatal Accident Inquiry, the local MSP complained that these inquiries were taking far too long.
Apparently, nothing has changed...

The Oldest Aspirant Guide (11 Feb 2002)

The Daily Telegraph on the 23 January, 2001, printed a 'letter' from John Barry. He was correcting another letter writter who maintained that he, the other letter writter, was the youngest Briton to climb Everest.

Barry mentioned that even though Michael Matthews disappeared whilst descending the mountain he be accredited with the ascent as one of the youngest to climb Everest. I only hope that neither Mr Matthews senior or, a Mr G. Davies read Mr Barry's letter.

Mr Matthews and Mr Davies know each other, both have lost son's who were under the protection of - BMG lead climbing expeditions both, know about Mr Barry. Graham Davies son died in his mothers arms after 19 days in a coma, after the fall that badly injured him and, killed two other mountain clients on the 25 July, 1992. The leader of Phillip Davies expedition - Mr J. Barry. The leader of Phillip's rope, Jan Rowe

Once again, Scottish FAI finds BMG not at fault (31 Dec 2001)

In January, 2001. a Scottish Fatal Accident Inquiry (as usual) finally, two years on, found a member of the Association of British MountainGuides (BMG) not at fault after - four of his six clients were killed; died whilst entombed in consolidating snow and ice. The web-site of the association: www.bmg.mltb.org still maintains that its members are competent in all aspects of client - care.?? The guide, as usual - survived to work another day. Unlike - his mountain clients...

Analysis: Mail on Sunday, 30 January 1994

Nick Fielding wrote a two page article about the deaths of three BMG mountain clients (Willie Dunnachie, Edward Gaines and Phillip Davies) on the West Flank of the Eiger (the tourist descent route) in July, 1992. The BMG guide/s as usual - survived. Whilst the BMG made a show of banning the lead guide involved, he has since been reinstated as a member of the Association of British Mountain; he was for a time, the oldest Aspirant Guide - ever! The dead clients of course, will never work again, their career's ruined, along with the lose of any potential children and potential grandchildren for the clients parents...  The other two guides, Jan Rowe and Dave Halton were never brought to account according to the Daily Mail, Analysis article.