Climber & Rambler Magazine: 1988. "Bogus Mountain Guides" (BMG)
"The Association of British Mountain Guides has asked me to write to warn your readers about people posing as - mountain guides." So wrote Mr S. Mitchell for the Association of British Mountain Guides (ABMG). (ABMG, has changed to the BMG.) According to BMG Internet advertising 2000: "This badge (their logo)recognised throughout the mountain world is your 'guarantee' of their professional training and competence in all aspects of mountaineering and - client care."
The BMG letter by Mr Mitchell continues: "We are therefore very concerned that any member of the public is subjected to an inferior and probably dangerous service by someone who may call himself a - mountain guide. To operate with an unqualified guide...may easily result in the loss of hard-earned holiday money."
To operate with a qualified guide is apparently, a gurantee of your safety and that of your hard earned savings. But if you are not BMG 'qualified' your must be dangerous. Really? http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/hamiltonint1.html
http://www.ecossenet.com Local BMG guides and Instructors: 'So if you've had your eye on that special route for some time but don't - want to die on it, give one of them a call. (Wed 13 March, 2002)'
Not a single mountain client of an independent guide ( bogus mountain guide) not working for a member of the BMG, has actually - lost a clients hard-earned holiday money; and certainly not a single clients life. To the contrary, too many BMG mountain clients since 1988, have 'lost' not only hard earned holiday money, but also their hard-earnt - life!. The true number of mountain clients who have in fact lost hard earned holiday money along with, their life, may never be known due to a wall-of-silence; a closing of BMG/BMC/IFMGA ranks.
A Bogus Mountain Guide, is anyone who is not a member; who does not support the BMG/BMC in its thinking; attitude to client safety.
It is not known, how many relatives of deceased BMG mountain clients have in fact received repayment of their loved one's course fees; hard-earned holiday money.
BMG: 'Adventure with Security & Safe Guarantees.? Why chance everything - on anything less?'??
After a court-case in 1997, (Cuthbertson v Hedley), the Advertising Standards Authority removed certain BMG advertising from High magazine. In 1988, BMG advertising boasted: "Adventure with Security, ...we have a comprehensive insurance scheme..." Even though BMG clients were dying in avoidable climbing accidents, BMG advertising continued; changed to: "Safe guarantees, why chance everything on anything less?" Today on the Internet, as already mentioned, guarantees of safety are still being advertised by the BMG - but are not being honoured.
Historical Note: In 1964, five 'qualified' Chamonix Guides took nine aspirant guides (clients) into slab avalanche conditions high on the Aiguille Vert. In the ensuing avalanche, fourteen climbers died... Andre Roch: 'Whoever exposes himself to the dangers of an avalanche without it being absolutely necessary is without doubt very stupid.' T. Rupar, holder of the Canadian Avalanche Association's highest award: '...its not too difficult to understand why the less experienced become avalanche statistics, but one can only conclude that the 'experienced' victims are either badly myopic, stupid, suicidally gung-ho, English, or a dangerous mix of some or all of these.'
Another 'Dirty Tricks' letter, this time, printed in High Mountain Sport - September 2001
In the September, 2001 issue of High Mountain Sport the official magazine of the British Mountaineering Council, a letter has been printed from a client of - Adventure Extreme a non member of - IGO 8000; from a complaining client about a (successful) expedition on Mount Everest. Whilst similar letters exist, complaining about member organisations of IGO 8000, none of those letters have ever been (will never be) published in the same magazine. Even though, those letters refer to - fatal accidents within the IGO 8000 consortium. IGO 8000: 'At the cutting edge of Himalayan safety... '?? In fact, an email regarding compaints about a Jagged Globe expedition appeared on the Rocktalk web-forum at 21:46h on Tuesday the 5 March, 2002. It was removed, zapped the following day. There was no such recourse for Adventure Extreme (a non member of IGO 8000). In a reply to that zapped email Steve Bell (18:37 Sun 10 March) states: 'However, in view of the potential seriousness of your allegation (complaint), I suggest you keep further communications about this - confidential while we investigate the matter.' Adventure Exteme, did not receive such a courtious breathing space..
And even more 'dirty tricks'... James Bedway posted on Rockfax's Rocktalk at 10.20 on Friday the 26 October, 2001: ' OTT Now Alpine 8000 (IGO 8000). Our group from the USA sent in our deposits and insurance money 9 months in advance and that was the last we heard from them. Now we are scrambling to book a US company on our dates then fight to get our money back from - OTT (Alpine Mountaineering based in Sheffield). They knew they were closing and took our money and said to hell with us. There are 10 guides listed with OTT - and we will never deal with any company that has those guides listed. We do not trust the...'
OTT, Alpine Mountaineering, according to someone who responded to Mr Bedway's comments has apparently gone - bust.
In 2000, a Press Release assured potential IGO 8000 clients thus: 'Although there are many commercial operators in the world, few in fact fit into the stringent - acceptable levels for membership to IGO 8000.'? OTT, was a founder member of - IGO 8000 and US clients have been left out in the cold; clients who have lost their hard-earned holiday money...
During their 1998 Conference held on the 19-21 November, the UIAGM/IFMGA members were informed about the forming of a sub-commission in 1997 the: Alpine Accidents Sub-Commission.
'A sub-commission was formed to create a panel of - experts to review accidents (there are apparently going to be more). Erich Gutsgell reported on the complex chain of events which result from an accident (clients die). In trying to better unstand this chain the sub-commission hopes to identify the best way in which the UIAGM/IFMGA can serve the interests of - member associations and guides ( their is no mention in the sub-commision report about serving the interests -of clients). Erich would like all menber associations to identify an - expert, to serve as a reviewer to accidents involving - guides (once again there is no mention of - their clients).'?
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/hamiltonint1.html but its O.K. if you are working for the BMG/IFMGA - IGO 8000. "I am really quite unusual...having 'not come through' the Alpine Guiding School", he said (2007).
2004/6 see's the BMG fighting tooth & nail against new: "Work at Height - EC Directive, Regulations.' Interestingly, the BMG grabbed with both hands PLas-y-Brenin when it was 'given away' for nil consideration under another - EC Directive... Independent climbing instructors / guides have until October, 2006 in which to respond to an HSE Consultation Paper regarding Amendments being pushed for by the BMG / AMI / BMC.
