Mountain Clients

Vixen Tor Inquiry (16 Jan 2006)

On the 24th February, 2005, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) lost, its attempt at gaining access to the private land on which stands Vixen Tor (the sitiuation remains unresolved until, the BMC gets it's way) a small granite outcrop on the edge of Dartmoor. Access to Vixen Tor, a non descript piece of moorland granite is being used by the BMC in their attempt at representing climbers and hillwalkers representation in which, it has failed over the last 50 years... The Inspector, appointed by the Secretary of State for Environment found in favour of Mrs Alford and her son against whom, the BMC along with the ramblers Association, arrayed themselves against, a mother and son, determined, to gain access to their private land. Try camping in the garden of the BMC's offices; outside the BMC's converted chapel in Manchester.... For some reason, and their must ahve been a reason, a mother and her son prevailed against the machinations; the combined efforts of the BMC and the Ramblers Association... On New Years Day, 2006, the Alford family and friends once again, had their day ruined, spoilt, when more protesters appeared, trespassing on their land.

But then 'something happened' as is usual with anything involving the BMC getting its 'own way', suddenly, something happened to gavanise the Dartmoor authority into announcing that it may purchase Vixen Tor to regain access for everyone, in fact, anyone, to the Dartmoor landmark, thus bringing forward its demise at the hands of BMB's, British Mad Bolter's the vast majority of whom, being members of the BMC.

The latest turn of events that may help to thwart the BMC's latest escapade for publicity was the dropping of charges against Mrs Alford and two friends by the Crown Prosecution Service (CPS). Mrs Alford and friends were accussed of assaulting two trespassing climber's cutting one of their ropes in the process (Plymouth Evening Herald, 30 Nov 2005)

Whilst members of the BMC are saying on the Internet - that the BMC itself is not involved it is interesting to note: 'The BMC is seeking clarifation on why - the CPS chose to drop the charges, and the BMC will be asking whether the CPS had sufficient technical understanding of the seriousness of cutting a climber's rope while he was leading.' The same BMC of course uttered and wrote not a single word when a climber deliberately, cut the rope on which was hanging his already injured - companion. On one hand the cutting of a rope is - very serious and on the other hand - it is not serious at all... No doubt one or several of the BMC's new 'expert witness' might have to be called in to show the judge, if their an Appeal, just what happens when you cut a climber's rope especially, when his friend is hanging on it.

One wag who has by now 'signed the Petition' against Mrs Alford showed just how much knowledge he had, about this area of Dartmoor an area with which he is soo - concerned: 'I did not know that their were cows in that area', (Rockfax Vixon Tor Petition Thread). Not only does the Vixon Tor area have substantial numbers of cattle roaming around, several are injured and killed by passing cars each year. Attracting climbers with their extra vehicles to the area (for such a miniscule piece of granite) could, add to the unsatisfactory situation regarding local livestock.

So the BMC is concerned about access to Vixen Tor are they? I recently re aquainted myself (16 January 2006) with the 'loss of access' created by the BMC in a joint venture with the Dartmoor Park Authority at the Dewerstone, Devil's Rock. Many years ago long lengths of unsightly wooden ballistrades suddenly appeared and I lost access to certain parts of the Dewerstone. Those 'barriers' are still there (rotting in places) along with 5 foot posts entwined with barbed wire, just strewn around near the foot of Devil's Rock. For thirty years I climbed regularly at the Dewertsone but once my access was ruined (by un-sightly fencing) by the so-called British Mountainering Council Access Code for the Dewerstone, I very rarely go there anymore.

And the BMC wants complete access to Vixen Tor? Not before they clear-up the mess that they created at the Dewerstone I hope.

Guiding Blight... (12 Oct 2003)

Was the title of a 'letter' published in the Daily Mail the 29 September, 2003 (a school teacher, Paul Ellis who apparently ignored bad weather warnings has been sent to prison for a year (Daily Mail 26/09/03) and has lost his teaching career because a pupil deliberately dived into a swollen river - he drowned - his mother was also present did not try and stop her son): 'On December 28, 1998, a guide from the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG), like teacher Paul Ellis, ignored avalanche warnings and took six scouts onto Anoch Mor near Ben Nevis.

In the ensuing avalanche, four young scouts died. The guide was later found to be not at fault. At least 13 clients of BMG members have been killed in avoidable accidents since 1990, but not one guide has been jailed. Why Mr Ellis?' Dennis Morrod, Saltash, Cornwall.

Alpine Mountaineering Pay-up (26 Sep 2003)

The family of Michael Matthews, 22, who in 1999 became the youngest Briton to climb Everest has finally been awarded £70,000 damages for his death (they had waited four years due to a wall-of-silence) while using faulty oxygen equipment during the descent.

Alpine Mountaineering (IGO 8000), the expedition organiser, its director, Jonathan Tinker, and a guide Michael Smith, agreed a deal at the \High Court Birmingham. A fourth defendant, Henry barclay Todd, is being sought. The family are now contemplating a private criminal prosecution against Todd who supplied the oxygen equipment.

UIAGM guide in court over 11 deaths (26 May 2003)

So wrote The Guardian on the 14 January, 2000: 'A French court gave a mountain guide a - suspended two-years  prison sentenceyesterday over the deaths in an avalanche of nine French teenagers and two adults during an excursion in 1998. Daniel Forte, 44, led the party across a steep slope near the ski resort of Les Orres despite warnings of high avalanche risks after a heavy snowfall.

Three other people were acquitted.' Today (2003), the UIAGM/IFMGA website still boasts: 'Their badge; logo, recognised throughout the world is your guarantee of their professional training and competence in all aspects of mountaineering and client care.'

Everest Circus Spins Out of Control (18 Apr 2003)

According to the website http://www.mounteverest.net/news/newspages/todd1040103.htm  Mount Everest News, on the 4 April, 2003: ´´Everest's most dangerous person, Henry Todd.', Mountain guide and member of IGO 8000. Mount Everest News went on: 'A spokesperson for IGO 8000 (the organisation at the cutting edge of Himalayan professionalism and safety) recently stated to ExplorersWeb: "Henry Todd left IGO 8000 voluntarily to not tarnish our name while he is involved in a possible court case with a previous (dead) client's family. Afterwards, if he wants to come back, as long as nothing undue has come to light, he will be welcomed back." IGO 8000 is  a (self appointed) recommending association for Everest commercial expedition leaders. See - IGO 8000 on this site. Interestingly, George Band ex-BMC President and member of the original first ascent of Everest team (1953) stated in the April 2003 edition of Trail magazine: 'Much of what goes on on Mount Everest these days has got nothing to do with - mountaineering.'

Family Launches Lawsuit Over Everest Death (23 Jan 2007)

The Sunday Times, June 2, 2002: 'The family of the youngest Briton to reach the summit of Mount Everest is suing the firm that organised the climb, claiming that he died during his descent through the companies negligence.

Michael Matthews, 22, reached the top of the 29,028ft peak in May, 1999, but disappeared while making his descent. The executors of his estate have issued High Court writs against Out There trekking (OTT). Matthews paid £25,000 to the company to get him to the summit; this sum included the services of an expedition leader, a guide and the man who supplied oxygen to the expedition. The writ claims total damages of £50,000, saying the company did not guide Matthews properly on the mountain,did not supply a safe oxygen system and failed in its duty of care to its client.

John Tinker, the expedition leader, is being sued along similar lines, as is Michael Smith, the guide, and Henry Todd, who was not a member of the expedition but supplied it with oxygen systems. These are alleged to have been defective and Matthews's family believes this proved fatal for him.  "Our family's interest in pursuing this matter is in the hope that something useful will come from it, " said David Matthews, Michael's father. "What we have found out is that nobody has any responsibility for the people who take expeditions up Everest. There are no police at 8,000 meters. It's lawless and things are happening which should not."

The writ says it is likely that Matthew's oxygen equipment was not working (properly) during the ascent and even thogh he was lucid he began to suffer problems on the way down. As a violent storm broke out, Smith and Matthews became seperated. Smith waited at the Balcony where he replenished his own oxygen, but Matthews did not appear. Smith called Nick Kekus, the senor guide, but was told that no rescue attempt could be mounted. As he began to lose sensation in his toes he decided to descend to Camp 4. Matthews is thought to have perished somewhere between the South Summit and the Balcony. According to the writ, problems with oxygen affected many of the expeditions members. They had been told they would have Poisk oxygen bottles and respirators, regarded as the best in the world. In fact, they were given LSE cylinders. The two systems supplied by Henry Todd, used difference adapter fittings for the regulators and the valves. Various attempts were made to file down parts of the fittings to marry them together, not always successfully.

David Matthews believes more could have been done to save his son and says there were 35 Sherpas on the expedition, most of whom were expert high-altitude climbers. Last night none of the defendents could be reached for comment.'

       OTT who have since gone out of business, were founder members of IGO 8000/BMG who to this day purport to be at the - cutting edge of Himalayan safety where its clients are concerned. Michael Matthews is not the only IGO 8000/BMG client to have been killed in an avoidable accident whilst climbing Everest. On the 29 April, 2002, Peter Legate, from Hampshire, fell to his death whilst on an IGO 8000/BMG lead commercial expedition. Like Michael Matthews, he also was left to descend alone (not roped to a guide) when he fell and disappeared into a deep crevasse from where, his body may never be recovered. This is not the first time that member of the BMG has been sued in a private court case.

In 1997, seven years after his death, Gerry Hedley's widow successfully sued her husbands BMG guide (who also survived his client) for her husbands avoidable death.

The Cuthbertson v Hedley Court-Case 1997.

In July 1997, most major newspapers carried, finally, the story of the Cuthberton v Hedley court-case. The judge found in favour of Mrs Hedley and her young son awarding them (her son never knew his father) £200,000 in compensation. Her husband; BMG client Gerry Hedley was killed when his guide fell; pulling Mr Hedley, from the North Face of the Tour Ronde a North Face ice climb above Chamonix in the French Alps. The guide - as usual survived.