Rock Climbing in Devon and Cornwall
Shadows on Laughter Tor
Half a league south of Postbridge, above the Huccaby Rings, stands a hill that is filled with banter, at the hour that midnight brings.
Not far from the heights of Ridden Ridge, in the lee of Bellever Tor, there are rocks that have seldom been silent, since the last Deluvian war.
In the silents hours, amongst crags that tower, voices are heard on the wind, who dares walk around, above Dunnabridge Pound, or long linger down by the Stone Row.
Dennis Morrod, 22 January, 1982.
The rock climbing in Devon is mainly conducted on the many Granite Tors. The main sites that we use, are Hound Tor, Hay Tor and the Dewerstone near Bickleigh, Plymouth. The Cornish climbing is concentrated solely on the coast of West Penwith, from Chairladder on the South coast, to Lands End and finally, Bosigran on the North coast.
Some First Ascents in Devon and Cornwall (just to set the record straight)
In the Historical section of the Third Edition of Devon Rock Climbs (1978) Robert Moulton wrote on page 10: 'Scimitar was the forerunner of a new phase of development on the Dewerstone, when during 1969 the cliff was to produce as many significant routes in a few month as it did in the rest of the decade. The prime mover in this activity was Len Benstead, an ex-Marine working as a plumber in Plymouth, of his **routes only Imperialist has yet attained any popularity and perhaps his greatest achievement was to free climb Gideon (with D. Morrod no - Len's was not a solo ascent), an act which immediately transformed it into the classic hard route of the cliff.' **On the first ascent of Imperialist, the crux top pitch was lead by - D. Morrod, two slings over spikes on the arete being the sole protection.
Prior to our first free ascent of Gideon, at the Dewerstone, in 1969, I had already made an ascent of Mike Rabley's (shortly afterwards, Mike was dragged when his second fell, from the first stance of Climbers Club almost at my feet and was killed instantly) and J. Jones route using a similar amount of aid. I thus had prior knowledge of the route during our attempt (climbed at our first attempt - no fringing / rigging - Len placing just three pieces of pro on the first pitch) at making the first free ascent.
I was on the first ascent of Yosemite (left out of the 1978 guide) in April, 1969, the first free ascent of Yogi (contrary to the Devon Guide Book history section) and the Dangler.(Len Benstead & D.Morrod).
Yogi first climbed free by Len and myself contrary to Dewerstone historical new route information.
First ascents at the Dewerstone: Gideon (first free ascent) 1969, Globe & Laurel - Direct. First ascent in 1969, Yosemite (Ravens Buttress) 1969, Imperialist (Upper Buttress) 1969, Dangler (Ravens Buttress) , 1969, Yogy (first free ascent-Ravens Buttress) 1969, Silken Threat Direct (two points of aid - solo ascent-Upper Buttress) 1970, Kernow Direct (Pinnicle Buttress) 1979, Right Wall via Julian (Tower Face) 1979, I.Y.D.P. (solo-Upper Buttress)) 1981. Rene, (takes the left edge of The Mammoth Roof)) 1981, Mammoth Roof solo (five points of aid - now reduced to three - Ravens Buttress) 1978 (in the picture of the roof (below) Armada goes out of frame left).
Cornish Climbing (Cheesewring Quarry - BMC Bolting Fund)
The Main face of Cheeswring Quarry in South East Cornwall (Black Panther takes an almost straight line to the right of the highest point) - used to be an excellent venue for traditional climbing. Those routes, are now being retro-bolted without permission from the first ascentionists...those routes have been spoilt by lesser climbers.
Today in 2006, this excellent venue for climbing in South East Cornwall has fallen to the bolters, the (not so insidious now) desease of bolting. Excellent routes, climbed ground-up (whatever that is supposed to mean these days) using 'rock shattering pitons (what an absolute nonsense)', first ascents with no rigging and frigging, have since / are still been overbolted.
Bolts were used in the past to establish new routes, and then, only on blank, lower sections of rock were they were - hand drilled on ascent. Protection in the 1969's was quite poor when compared to modern equipment, protection. Had the situation regarding equipment been reversed, no bolts would have been placed even though, the granite in Cheesewring Quarry, by definition, had already been damaged.
The current guidbook by Sean Hawken: 'Plymouth climbers Mike Bradford and Dennis Morrod broke the incestuous hold of the locals with with their ascent of Bird Line (1969).' The last (crux) pitch was lead by D. Morrod with one point of aid.
'1970 saw a determined assault on the big artificial lines by an outstanding group of Plymouth climbers including Len Benstead who, partnered by Morrod produced Khyber Wall A1 (now free) and the dramatic Black Panther A3 which still awaits a free ascent (2006) in its entirety.' The partnership also produced: Pink Panther (listen to this one) - Sean Hawken: 'Central Corner 30ft hard Very Severe 5b (one point of aid). Climb the shallow corner past an old rusty peg (back it up). To finish break right out of the top of the crack and carry on up the face above. Editors Note: When Len Benstead and Dennis Morrod eliminated the last point of aid on this poplar 60's aid route (rather than the as well known Black Panther) he (they) renamed it Pink Panther - but the new name never stuck (?). probably because the climb was already well known (as is Black Panther soon no doubt to be likewise renamed).'
Sadly Black Panther has been / is being, retrobolted. Sean Hawken: 'On no account should you place a bolt or a piton on an existing route which other climbers have always managed to do without.'? Slowly, Black Panther is being overbolted as have Bird Line, Warrior, Rene and Black Sabbath to name just five (when they have finished, the offending bolts - will be removed).
The recent guidebook has also sought to change the view of Black Panther all together. This apparenly is the main aim of bolter, to obliterate completely the high standard of what has gone before: Sean Hawken: 'Len Bensteads (he obviously soloed it) artificial climbing Tour de Force has partially been superseded by Real Live Wire. Never the less Black Panther is the only climb to 'top out' in the area right of the Central Overhang.'
'1: 50ft 5a. As for High Noon to belay at the bolt on pitch two (of High Noon).' In fact, Black Panther does not touch High Noon.
'2: 40ft 6b. Continue up into the corner to join the black ramp (now climbed free - because bolts have been retro-placed) of Real Live Wire and continue up this to a projecting ledge and belay.' There are no ledges on Black Panther ( it is a one pitch climb) which in fact, taked a verticle line from its base to the summit.
'3: 30ft A3. From here peg up the vertical crack behing to the top using an assortment of pitons.
Black Panther A3, was first climbed by Len Benstead and Dennis Morrod in 1970. The original route (goes almost vertically to finish to the right of the highest point of the Main Face of Cheesewring Quarry - picture above) is slowly being retro bolted and the climb renamed - Real Live Wire. When the dastardly deed is completed, the offending bolts will be chopped thus returning Black Panther (which has already been written out of Rockfax's edition of the Cheesewring Guide) to its former place in the history of Cornish climbing; the way things used to be. The first ascentionists created this climb without the use of a single bolt for it to be highjacked; ruined with (rock shattering) bolts - by lesser climbers. Not a trace was left ; no damage (it is a quarry) was left behind them.
Rene, Bird Line and Warrior (one of the bolts on Warrior was placed, perhaps not by mistake, on the line of Black Panther) have likewise been retro-bolted and likewise will be de-bolted.
Contrary to Sean Hawken's assertion: 'The outstanding Plymouth climber Len Benstead (who with D Morrod made a failed attempt at the second ascent of High Noon) advocated the use of bolts in Cheeswring Quarry'? Len never advocated using bolts in my presence (he never placed one) we never disussed bolting in Cheesewring Quarry (the bolts that I placed below Rene were placed with a hand chisle, from the ground-up, climbing solo and without Len's knowledge).
