Internet Page... Can't Climb? Bolt! Or better still, use the new BMC 'Leader Ladders'.
Will show the increase; the avoidable loss of life amongst young climbers (and mountain clients) since the British Mountaineering Council started a policy of advertising; enticing young people (regardless of the Young Persons Safety Act of 1995) into climbing / mountaineering creating as it has, a million dollar market with scant respect for human life, apparently. Now panicing, the BMC are sponsoring Bolting hoping to stem the increasing number of deaths and injuries inevitable with so many participating in a high risk sport... http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/expansionbolts The BMC have just brought in a member (OBE) of the BMG...mountain lovers, guardians of the environment blah, blah, blah, to oversee the distribution of 10,000 expansion bolts in its latest UK Bolting Debacle...
The 2007 court-case brought by David Matthews against three defendants after a 1999, fatal Everest debacle when his son, Michael Matthews disappeared near the summit, was quashed because a second Judge: 'Had discussions with British Mountaineering Experts', many of whom, were friends of the - defendants...
Must Read: http://www.hyperionbooks.com/titlepage.asp?ISBN=1401302734&SUBJECT= 'High Crimes - The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed.' For anyone who thought mountaineering was a noble sport. As it once was...
Murder at 19,000ft http://www.bass-schuler.com/Riders/MensJournal_Nov07_MURDER19K.pdf involving the usual faces...
'Death alert for reckless UK climbers.' http://observer.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,,2165290,00.html Apparently, a 'Winter Checklist' initiative has come from the Mountaineering Council of Scotland's 'Safety Adviser' BMG/UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide - Roger Wild. Four climbing accidents (Nov 2006 - January 2007) involving five deaths, are sited in the Observer's warning regarding winter conditions and global warming. There is no mention in the article, of the four deaths (in one accident) under a collapsing Scottish cornice in Dec, 1998, when four of Mr Wild's clients died. There was no mention of global warning whoop's, warming, in National newspapers in December, 1998... And who enticed all these - young, reckless, climbers into a highly dangerous sport via artificial climbing walls? Step forward - the BMC...
Climber Magazine, April, 1997: 'It was generally agreed that increased participation was the greatest single threat to mountaineering freedoms and the mountain environment...' Plus: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1665 Cesare Maestri - Italian UIAGM guide** involved in the Rape of a Mountain by drilling approx 300 expansion bolts into the perfect granite of - Cerro Torre during his second unsuccessful attempt to climb the peak his climbing partner Toni Egger, disappeared in an avalanche. Another Italian climber, Corti, was accused of a 'dark deed' for years, when two other climbers went missing; two climbers who were with Corti on the same Eiger climb in - 1957. ** Details on Internet Page 2
http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/0746-president-of-the-uiagm-killed-by-crevasse-fall/ The President of the UIAGM / IFMGA (we are the only mountain guides qualified in all aspects of client care...) whilst crossing a wet (snow-covered) glacier on the 28th July, 2007, (travelling - unroped) fell into a crevasse when a snow-bridge collapsed and died. He had apparently, played a leading role in increasing 'safety amongst guides' - particularly on snow / glacier travel...? So much for - 'Death alert for reckless UK climbers' - apparently, the alert should be spread further afield.
http://spanishhighs.co.uk/comments.html mountain clients themselves, in the main, know best...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=264649 The 'Leader Ladders' come in different lengths and apparently, top-ropes must be used with this new BMC equipment, safety initiative. **See also Internet Page 2
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?=1928 Bolt Mad Council...BMC name change - but at least it's new 'Leaders Ladder'(s) should cut down, if not eradicate, the BMC's bolting program - erecting ladders on climbs will be far safer in the long rung, sorry, long run...
http://www.guidinglight.org.uk/tourronde.html 'Who is Dennis Morrod?', - a question on Rockfax in 2007
http://www.traditionalmountaineeering.org/FAQ_NotableAccidents.htm How do you manage to cut the rope on an already injured - friend thus endangering his life? And more importantly - get away with it...
http://groups.msn.com/InformationforMountainClients/plasybrenin.msnw A Pig in a Government Poke or, 'This Splendid Enterprise
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,60-1477157,00.html Heckmair was a guest of 'honour' at Plas y Brenin (invited by the BMG) at a time (1985) when the BMC /BMG were conducting a 'witch hunt' against so-called 'British (none members of the Nazi Party) bogus mountain guides'.
http://search.bbc.co.uk/cgi-bin/search/results.pl?scope=all&edition=d&q=climbing+accidents&go=Search
http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/november/22/newsid_2549000/2549021.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/north_east/6168554.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/1962321.stm
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_199706/ai_n14103845
http://www.mountainclients.org.uk/index2.html Eiger 1992
http://www.mountainclients.org.uk/index2.html Tour Ronde 1990
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/2861099.stm With the aid of an annual government grant of - 450,000 pounds sterling (4million pounds sterling since 1997). So much for - fair competition - when it comes to climbing courses in the UK then...
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/manchester/4575122.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/571830.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2836111.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/930180.stm Mentions also: 'the celebrated British climber Joe Simpson.' Celebrated for what?? The article also mentions that: 'Sir Chris Bonington made the first British ascent of the Eiger North Face.' In fact, Ian Clough and - Sir Chris Bonington made the first British ascent of the Eiger North Face...
http://archive.thisisbradford.co.uk/2000/1/15/157724.html A Memorial to Ian Clough
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/477573.stm Group had - 3 qualified leaders...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=229571 The British Mountainering Council has purchased 10,000 expansion bolts to further its UK bolting campaign (February 2007). The goal of deliberately damaging Britain's unquarried rock is now - a BMC quest...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=215043 Bolts, Bolts, - everywhere...if you can't climb? Bolt!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=277 Bolts, Bolts, - everywhere...if you can't climb? Bolt!
http://www.uiaa.ch/webstorage/download/36/tobolte.doc. UIAA feable opposition to Bolts...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=62803 Obviously a new belaying technique - you are safe in BMG hands?
http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/year-of-hard-knocks/ Another year (2004) of hard knocks for qualified guides and clients...
http://www.guardian.co.uk/usa/story/0,,2074093,00.html Guides refuse assistance - nothing new there then.
http://www.zoominfo.com/Search/PersonDetail.aspx?PersonID=44390646 Henry Todd (one of the founder members of IGO 8000 and also one of the main players in the Operation Julie - Drug Bust) has received support from the BMC / BMG from the 1970's too date... The whole story, regarding the use of illegal drugs in British climbing - has yet to be told. 'Operation Julie', by Dick Lee, - riveting read.
http://www.getoutdoors.com/goblog/index.php?/archives/717-IGO-8000-Dead.The-Govening-Body-for-8k-Peaks-is-Worthless.html IGO 8000 (supported by the UIAA/BMG/BMC) the would-be-governing-body (cartel) of commercial high altitude mountaineering (even though their 'qualification' did not / does not have a high altitude component) is dead; worthless... Really!
http://www.mounteverest.net/expguide/commercial.htm What IGO 8000 clients were supposed to have received...
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/asia/article725483.ece "Where have all the 'Trad climbers gone' (Rockfax, July, 2007) - probably all died of shame... Or maybe, the wholesale bolting of British unquarried rock was the reason...
http://www.news24.com/News24/Sport/More_Sport/0,,2-9-32_2069194,00.html American, who was attending the American School, Leysin? An inquiry has apparently, been opened.
http://observer.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,,2165290,00.html Talk about the blind leading the blind...
http://www.ramblers.org.uk/news/2007/bmwcase2.html The Ramblers Association (ably supported by BMC cash no doubt) should stick to worrying Mrs Alford (Vixen Tor owner) to death and leave the 'big boys' alone. And guess who pays the massive - Legal Fees?
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=10064 Russel Brice - contradictions surrounding David Sharpe - left to die on Everest.
A Deliberate Act: http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/expansionbolts/ In 2007, the British Mountaineering Council flooded the UK climbing scene with 10,000 expansion bolts...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=279121&v=1 (Honoured climbers / mountaineers) At 01:26 on Wednesday the 9th January, 2008, johncoxmysteriously (solicitor) http://www.richardmiller.co.uk/jokes.htm ) wrote on a Rockfax Forum thead: '... the lady came over as something of a vengeful harpy as I recall. ' The lady in question; the lady who has been libelled, is Lynda Woodroffe who lost her husband, Gerry Hedley in a guided climbing accident in 1990. The BMG guide, Smiler Cuthbertson, survived the fall. Vengeful? She had waited seven years before she was finally compensated for her lose: Her husband was insured with BMC as was the guide in question. She knew that something had happened to cause the fall (Lynda was a climber herself) and she wanted the French police report. She and her friends, in both the UK and France; friends including a solicitor wrote and telephoned Chamonix; the French police, but could not get them to send the report. She had three years to make a case (she was bringing up alone, her baby; her young son who his father never saw) against the guide (according to the insurance and legal rules) insurance company. Her baby son was born eight months after her husbands avoidable death, this delayed her efforts further. The Report finally arrived after 3 years and 3 weeks after, intervention from the Foreign Office. Outside of the alloted time period now, she claimed through he son Daniel. A Harpy? Only in John Cox's mind. http://www.mountainclients.org.uk/tourronde.html
BMC Bolting Extravaganza - 2007. http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2315 World famous climber Pat Littlejohn and BMG guide - organising UK Bolting Extravaganza. The so-called British Mountaineering Council has bought 10,000 expansion bolts (some of them eighteen inches long) for insertion into Britain's unquarried, climbing areas against the wishes of the vast majority of British rock climbers, mountaineers and hill walkers apparently, Littlejohn OBE, is overseeing the distribution of the expansion bolts; the offending objects nationwide: 'It [the BMC] exists to further the interests of mountaineering as a whole, and it will succeed in this only in so far as it receives the 'full support of each and every mountaineer'.It should be needless to add that there will be no attempt to introduce anything so foolish as a qualification scheme for 'mountain leaders'.' G.A.Dummett, Pembroke College, Cambridge, 1946. In many respects the mere thought of a national body to represent rock climbers; mountaineers is an anathema to many. Never mind a pro-bolt representative national body.
Don Willians Memorial Campsite - Chamonix. http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2243 'The only site that the French authorities offered us (BMC) was in an avalanche track...' Really! After making a financial contribution (like many others) to the BMC towards a Memorial Campsite in Chamonix in memory of Don Whillians(not the Roaches), Maurice Simond, the then owner of the famous, Chamonix Bar National took me to the private site that he had offered for the proposed Memorial Campsite in Le Bossons (Maurice owned the land) and it was / is not in an avalanche track. An idyllic situation for a campsite next to the River Arve, his generous offer, was turned down...
A 38 year Controversy. http://observer.guardian.co.uk/osm/story/0,,1766478,00.html Still surrounds a UIAGM guide...
Cerro Torre, Patagonia. http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1665 In 1959, the supposed first ascent of Cerro Torre took place. Two men, against all the Patagonian odds, apparently, climbed to the summit but on the descent, something happened and the Austrian climber Toni Egger, fell to his death. The remaining climber Cesare Maestri an Italian UIAGM mountain guide, since 1952, survived reaching the foot of the mountain safely where he was rescued by another team member. Over a period of years, numerous climbers tried to repeat Maestri's and Egger's ascent, all of whom failed. Questions began to be asked: 'could Maestri and Egger really have climbed to the summit of Cerro Torre'? Apparently, the question has never been asked - how did Egger come to fall from the mountain? Just two years prior to the 1959 fatal accident to Egger, Italian climber Claudo Corti was rescued, survived a climb on the North Face of the Eiger in 1957 a climb on which, three other climbers died. Two of those climbers Gunther Northdurf and Hans Mayer just disappeared. European climbing journalst's questioned Corti and several newspapers printed comments regarding Corti's possible involvement in the death's of the two disappeared German climbers. He was in fact accused by some, of having - pushed - the two climbers off the Eiger's North face that is, until two skeletal bodies were found on the summit of the Eiger several years later - Northdurf and Mayer. In defiance of the rumours surrounding his claimed first ascent of Cerro Torre this 'mountain, envoronment loving Italian guide (his UIAGM badge just visible above his Club Alpine Italiano badge** )' returned to Cerro Torre in 1971 with a petrol driven compressor and 400 expansion bolts. Failing to reach the summit, he left the compressor hanging high on the mountain (to one day fall on some one). The documentary - The Rape of a Mountain - showed all to clearly the extent of the damage done to Cerro Torre by the insertion of over 300 expansion bolts*** by this climber and guide who still maintains - 38 years on, that he made the first ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959 and that Toni Egger was avalanched from the mountain to his death.? ** Photograph of Cesare Maestri, Page 112, Great Climbs, Published by Mitchell Beazley 1994, General Editor, Chris Bonington. ***300 bolts pales into insignificance when compared the BMC's latest - Bolting Extravaganza (2007)
On the subject of false claims the Introduction to the Modern Library Exploration Series (Jon Krakauer) in Walter Bonatti's book, 'The Mountains of My Life', states: 'In the late 1950's for instance, Cesare Maestri was engaged in a race with Bonatti to make the first ascent of a spectacular South American peak called Cerro Torre then considered the most difficult mountain on earth. After failing to reach the summit (twice), Maestri claimed it anyway, perpetuating an elaborate fraud that still reverberates through the world's mountaineering community.' http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walter_Bonatti For many years Bonatti endured the machinations of the Italian climbing establishment after he was accused of 'betrayal' after the first ascent of K2 an expedition, on which, he in fact played a pivital role. After carrying vital oxygen to 26,600ft and enduring a bivouac without any shelter he was accused of having used some of that oxygen himself (he did not have a face mask or an oxygen regulator). In fact, the two climbers, Lino Lacedelli and 'official UIAGM guide' Achille Compagnoni who made the first successful ascent of K2 (1954) found and used the oxygen that Bonatti had left for them to the actual summit (photograph evidence emerged in 1990) the two climbers maintaining, quite falsely, that they had had run out of oxygen 600 ft below the summit because Bonatti had used some, this of course, was proved to be untrue. Lino Lacedelli's recent book: 'K2 The price of Conquest (2006)', finally confirms that Bonatti was innocent of the false charges made against him...
http://maraton.blogspot.com/2005_09_01_archive.html (Shows Lacedelli and Companoni using summit oxygen on K2).
The Guide Lacedelli, along with the Guide Ghedina, features also in another dubious climb (in many ways similar to Maestri's claimed ascent of Cerro Torre) the supposed second ascent of Bonatti's route; first ascent, tour de force, of the Grand Capucin in the French alps. Bonatti and Oggioni had taken three days aid climbing the Capucin (very basic equipment) a ground breaking climb for the period (1951). Lacedelli claimed to have made the second ascent of the climb in just one day giving contradictory information regarding the difficulties in the last third of the climb (getting easier). Four top, French climbers making what they thought were the third and fourth ascents found the final third of the climb as difficult as anything below them. They came to the conclusion that Lacedelli had not climbed the upper third of the climb but must have retreated. The French climbers claimed the second and third ascents for themselves. "I said to myself (Paragot & Berardini's book - Vingt Ans de Cordee - 1974) these guys (the guides Lacedelli and Ghedina) are sellers of smoke - they never reached the top! They started up the Capucin, no doubt, but they sure didn't finish it!" Paragot found no evidence of the supposed abseil descent back down the upper reaches of the main face - the first supposed descent of the whole face (Bonatti, after his first successful ascent, descended via the peaks North face not back down the terribly overhanging main face; the South face) supposedly made by Lacedelli & Ghedina after their claimed second ascent of the Grand Capucin in a claimed faster time than Bonatti did on the first ascent.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/live/articles/showbiz/showbiznews.html?in_article_id=494947&in_page_id=1773 Apparently, another mountaineer has become famous; a household name, by not climbing a mountain.? Given enough media coverage Mr Rhys Jones might become as famous as that other famous actor Brian Blessed. Mr Blessed also, became a famous mountaineer, a household name, when he failed to climb Mount Everest. Failing to climb mountains seem to be a modern quirk leading as it apparently does, to becoming a famous climber. Cesare Maestri, UIAGM, became a famous climber in 1959...
http://www.phayul.com/news/discuss/view.aspx?id=18326 "Boycot Russel Brice's IGO 8000 outfit 'Himalayan Experience", and maybe ice8000 - originally IGO8000 Himalayan Guides (changing the name changes nothing). Boycott, I wonder why?
http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/march10/newsid_2566000/2566699.stm 10 March, 1988: Swiss mountain Guide (we are qualified in all aspects of clients care) - not too Blame? Prince Charles almost engulfed by Off Piste Avalanche but Military Aid, is killed.
http://www.kidsclimbing.co.uk/disclaimer.asp The website that entices young children to climb (using climbing equipment) shows quite clearly a very young girl climbing without - a safety helmet - their disclaimer useless. The website has a reassuring comment from the - British Mountaineering Council - so thats OK then...
http://www.mounteverest.net/old-news/newspages/everestnick.htm Article by Nick Fielding Senior Sunday Times journalist - IGO 8000 once again at the cutting edge of Himalayan safety...
http://www.channel4.com/news/articles/business_money/norwich+union+hit+with+126m+fine/1198157 Norwich Union, who members of the BMG, assisted in ruining a compensation claim in 1993 - 98. After this latest huge loss of money to its Share Holders any current compensation claims in the pipe-line will be impossible; very difficult to win... In 1998, Norwich Union lost a 450,000 pound libel case...
http://uk.msnusers.com/SafetyInformationforMountainClients/Documents/chance.html Brings a whole NEw meaning to the statement - A Chance in a Million...
http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/british-avalanche-victim-dies-in-hospital/ Another Chance in a Million the guide of course - survived...
http://www.moviesnz.com/fg/ The mountain guide of course - survived whilst Mike Rheinberger - the client - is abandoned; left behind above the 'First Step' on Everest with snow blindness - according to BBC Radio 4 program.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Dave+Turnbull+BMC&search=Search What must the Nature Conservancy Council think of the supposed conservationist British Mountaineering Council placing; inserting 18" expansion bolts into the unquarried Gritstone of - Stanage.?
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/1/story.cfm?c_id=262&objectid=10485011&ref=rss Another luck mountain client the first in 2008...
http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/november/22/newsid_2549000/2549021.stm Another leader, with no 'official qualifications' on seeing the bad weather coming, took the young people with him, off Cairngorm...
A Deliberate Act: http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/expansionbolts/ In 2007, the British Mountaineering Council flooded the UK climbing scene with - 10,000 expansion bolts... Can't Climb? Bolt!
And the second most shameful act in climbing: http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?news=15279 Clients; climbers left for dead, if in fact not actually dead, by - other climbers.
http://thebmc.co.uk/Search.aspx?q=bolts Can't Climb? Bolt!
http://www.climbing.com/community/ari/ariprogram2008 'Anchor (expansion bolts) Replacement Initiative (ARI) 2008 - A Community Service project At A Crag Near You... Can't Climb! Join the community project.
http://www.mountain-environment.com/qualifications.html Out of con-cern for the 'mountain-environment' a leading BMG guide is distributing; overseeing the distribution of - 10,000 expansion bolts bought by the British Mountaineering Council (with somebody Else's money of course) in 2007. 'Introduction', in the the BMC book: 'The First Fifty Years (an abridged history of the BMC) - 'It [the BMC] exists to further the interests of mountaineering as a whole** and it will succeed in this only in so far as it receives the full support of each and every mountaineer ... It should be needless to add that there will be no attempt to introduce anything so foolish as a qualification scheme for 'mountain leaders'.' ** Not just so-called Sports Climbers.
http://groups.msn.com/SafetyInformationforMountainClients/retrobolts.msnw Pete Livesey Retrobolts the Back Page...
http://www.getoutdoors.com/goblog/index.php?/archives/2532-World+Highest+Via+Ferrata-On-Mt.-Kinabalu.html Apparently, the BMC's new initiate: 'Leader Ladders' has reached new heights...
Russel Brice and the Everest Rope Debacle: http://www.everestnews.com/everestnews4/ropeseverest2005a.htm Climbers lives put at unnecessary; avoidable risk on Mount Everest by other climbers...
An anguished father: http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,200-2279359,00.html lost his attempt to find out exactly what happened to his son Michael Mattews, who disappeared whilst descending Mount Everest, alone, after a successful ascent in 1999... The judge found in favour of the three defendants the opinion of just - one man. Clients being allowed to wander up and down Everest by their ('our UIAGM qualification does not have a high-altitude component) guides.
Must read: 'The Height of Avarice, and 'High Crimes - Everest in an Age of Greed', by Michael Kodas... 'Left for Dead', by Beck Weathers - a client who survived.
http://www.mounteverest.net/story/stories/GeorgetoTinaYoubelieveIonlythreatenyouwithalawsuitDec102004.shtml 'High Crimes - The fate of Everest in an Age of Greed.' by M. Kodas. Where climbers threaten to sue - climbers.
http://www.k2climb.net/story/BestofExplorersWeb2004AwardMagicLineDec312004.shtml More climbers die on the Abruzzi Ridge - unassisted this time on K2. Unlike the real climbers on the Magic Line who were determined to look after each other at all costs.
Another tragic accident: http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,3-2204114,00.html Descending from Mount McKinley three of my friends keen to get off the mountain (we should have stayed together) and a flight back to Telkeetna went on ahead and left Ted and myself to continue down the last two miles to the airstrip as a rope of two. A rope of two is in a serious situation if one of the team falls into a crevasse. Walking ahead of me, Ted had thirty foot of rope out between us as this would allow a longer time for a self arrest to be effected in the event of a fall. When the snowbridge collapsed Ted disappeared into the the crevasse and as I tried to effect a self arrest his long, ladened sledge, disappeared into the crevasse after him. He was in effect hanging upright (luckily because he was wearing a full rucksack) and because the walls of the crevasse were so wide apart, he was also hanging freely below the front of his sledge in an apparently, bottomless crevasse... And we both lived happily ever after... One climber can effect such a difficult rescue given the experience and constant practise at the principle's of - crevasse /self rescue**. In the same way, there is no excuse for not bringing injured / disabled climbers down from Mount Avarice; Everest being the the most public example of climbers, fellow mountaineers being abandoned to their fate. **The easy option of course, as we see in the Touching the Void debacle, is to simply - cut your already injured partners rope.
'Everest decision that frees the mountain': http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/story/0,,1827141,00.html Frees the mountain for what? For more clients to be allowed to 'wander alone' up and down an 8,000 metre peak? Another avoidable tragedy on Mount Everest. When drug dealers peddles their wares they have - plenty of clients. Still being 'in business' is no criteria in this instance.
TREE BOLTING: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=282628 Not content with deliberately damaging unquarried rock; cliffs and crags from Lands End to the Highlands of Scotlands, UK's mad bolters have now turned to - Tree Bolting. It matters not that these trees will die prematurely. The finest example of Tree Bolting is in (Kelly College, Tavistock) Devon. In the grounds of the Adventure Centre there are magnificent trees that are studded with - expansion bolts. Can't Climb? Bolt!
http://www.spanishhighs.co.uk We Reccommend...
http://www.guidinglight.org.uk/home.html We Reccommend...
http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp We Recommend...
DanielMazur@SummitClimb.com Daniel, was involved in the rescue of mountain client Lincoln Hall (left for dead) on Mount Everest.
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_199706/ai_n14103845 Gerry Hedley - International Art restorer... Tour Ronde.
Pembrokegate http://groups.msn.com/InformationforMountainClients/pembrokegate.mnsw The failed attempt by the BMC to control Guidebook Publication. 'Lets buy Gary Gibson a wordproccessor...(BMC)'
Can't Climb? Bolt! http://thebmc.co.uk/Search.aspx?q=bolts
http://www.freewebs.com/tomrevell2/web4.jpg 'One of the consequences of not wearing a helmet.'
http://www.K2climb.net/news.php?id=16626 Unacceptable behaviour for anyone let alone - climbers; mountaineers - qualified guides...
Mount Avarice - http://www.K2climb.net/news.php?id=16632 Everest Divine Comedy, the ground work for which was laid by - IGO 8000
Mount Avarice - http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15279 Everest, another tragedy and more about Russell Brice...UIAGM.
Further http://www.freetibet.org/campaigns/uc061006.html damming evidence of the above attempted cover-up.
Murder http://www.bass-schuler.com/Riders/MensJournal_Nov07_MURDER19K.pdf at 19,000ft.
http://www.getoutdoors.com/goblog/index.php?/archives/1157-Tom-and-Tina-Hate-Russell-Brice-The-Discovery-Channel.html Clients fight back... Why would an expedition leader, travel all the way to California (from Europe) to talk-a-client-into joining his expedition to Mount Everest without knowing, first hand, if the potential client was experienced enough.? According to another clients, Henry Todd used / uses the same long distance travel ploy. Not until the client arrives at Avarice Base-Camp do they realise that the trap has sprung - the money; their fee has already been banked...
http://www.getoutdoors.com/goblog/index.php?/archives/2707-Chinese-Dynamite-Everest-Summit,-Now-Only-3rd-Tallest.html 'The Chinese Government, fearing even more bad press over the Everest debacle, decided to take matters into their own hands yesterday. They hired Russell "I'll Do Anything For A Buck" Brice to lead an expedition up the mountain loaded with Nitro to blow 20 meters of the top after the Chinese had successfully reached it...
http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,,2004979,00.html Death In The Snow: why were five UK climbers killed on one peak? Spate of avoidable accidents blamed on hype of climbing; mountaineering. And who has been the pushing participation for over - fifty years? Including comment from Scotlands - Safety Office - Roger Wild, BMG.
'The Future is Mixed', Dave MacLeod: http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/pitch-in/dmc.html Should read: 'The Future is Mixed - Up.' Can't Climb? Bolt! Climbers who cheat (top-rope practise potential new routes, pre-place protection etc., etc) still trying to defend the indefencable... "I can cheat at E9." Really! How interesting...
Dr Jose Ramon Morandeira: http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=10081 "Could David Sharpe have been saved? Definitely." Dr Morandiera (Head of research at Zaragoza's University Hospital) is an expert in Emergency Mountain Medicine and a veteran climber.
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17025 Michael Mathews Foundation.com supports http://www.starlight.org.uk
Nine Mountain Guides and Six Mountain Clients dead: http://pistehors.com/news/ski/comments/year-of-hard-knocks Brings a whole new meaning to the boast: "We are competent in all aspects of client care."
There is no excuse for http://www.guardian.co.uk/theobserver/2001/nov/11/focus.news mountain clients being allowed to wander up and down technical mountains unroped especially, on such a killer mountain as Mount Avarice.
http://blog.rockfax.com/alanjames/2007/11/08/reflections-on-the-guidebook-debate-of-2001 The BMC at its best - trying to ruin someone Else's operation; business.
Daily Mail, May1st, 2008, http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/live/articles/news/worldnews.html?in_article_id=563237&in_page_id=1811 and five more mountain clients die in an all consuming avalanche, on the Grand Paradiso, all consuming, well almost - their UIAGM/IFMGA guide of course - survived... http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-alps-avalanche-tragedy
July, 2007: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/europe/6295380.stm A group of 14 soldiers on an alpine climb were - UIAGM/IFMGA guided. Swissinfo and safetynews.co.uk confirm that the large group including the six victims were - professionally lead; leaders who survived.. http://www.avalanche-center.org/News/2007/2007-10-04-ch.php This avoidable accident mirrors to a degree the 14 deaths in July, 1964 when 5 qualified guides; instructors from ENSA, Chamonix, took a group of 9 aspirant guides into avalanche conditions on the Aiguille Vert. In the ensuing slab avalanche, everyone died in the fall down the Cordier Couloir.
BMC 'Cheating' is out in the open and being codified: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=301834 Yes, I suppose bolting unquarried rock is - criminal damage.
There was shock and horror in certain British climbing circles when (May, 2008) a famous, 65 year old mountaineer failed to summit Mount Avarice (the mountain used to be called Everest). And yet, the following day, a 75 year old Nepalese climber successfully climbed the mountain and returned safely to base camp where there was - no helicopter waiting to take him off the mountain. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/somerset.7148267.stm
The 'man who pays for the damn thing' starts to fight back: http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17023
