Whilst in Chamonix this summer it was interesting to note the increase in the wearing of helmets by the clients of UIAGM/IFMGA guides.In the last two years there hasbeen a sudden surge in the use of protective head gear amongst clients that is, apart from the 'main man' the guy who controls the safety of these clients i.e. the guide. Standing out like a sore thumb, the unhelmeted instructor/guide is still quite evident amongst the groups of now helmeted clients practicing, for example, ice climbing on the Mer de Glace.
Who looks after the clients if the instructor/guide falls/stumbles and receives a head injury? It happens/it has happened...
The increase in the wearing of helmets on the Gouter Ridge was also quite impressive this year. Even so, too many young people were killed in the infamous Gouter couloir on this section of Mont Blanc - once again last (2002) summer .
Even so, illustrations in BMC publications still insist in the main, on showing climbers not - wearing protective head gear (2005). Going one step further, a letter published in the November, 2008 issue of Summit, the BMC magazine, was brought to my notice: 'We [the BMC] receive many letters 'complaining' about the publication of climbers not wearing protective gear - but we still still believe that it is a personal decision...' True, but the BMC is supposedly at the 'Peak of its Profession' and should therefore start acting in a professional manner and show responsible climbing practices. Selling insurance to climbers on one hand and then supporting the none wearing of helmets, an action that could allow insurance companies to refuse to pay-out in an accident where a helmet could have prevented an insurance claim - beggars belief.