U.I.A.G.M./B.M.G/I.F.M.G.A/OFFICIAL GUIDES
British Mountain Guides
Charity No:306101...'because they have their own agendas which are sure as hell nothing to do with charity.'
Climber magazine, May, 2006: 'Iain Peter has stepped down as Director and CEO of Plas y Brenin (the supposed centre for excellence in mountain sport - or as one magazine put it - a Pig in a Governement Poke) after nearly ten years. Iain was instrumental in changing the way the centre was managed when he set up the Mountain Training Trust (MTT - Charity No:306101) 1996 - to fulfil a management contract (the deadline for which was September, 1995) from the Sports Council.' So much for accuracy in mountain journalism then. It is now well known that the Mountain Training Trust was hastyly cobbled together when the Sports Council contract was originally warded to Glendale Leisure who had conformed to the Sports Council offer under an EC Directive to the highest cash bidder for the con-tract. The then Director of the British Mountainering Council (Roger Payne BMC) publicly castigated Glendale Leisure as being too inexperienced, etc., etc, for the management of PyB. But then 'something happened' and the contract was withdrawn from Glendale - who had abidded by the contract rules - which more than can be said for the MTT. Of course, members of the BMG figure in this disgaceful series of events. No mention is made of course, about the fact that PyB had been making a substantial loss in the twenty years whilst being managed by members of the - BMG... The annual payout of 400,000 pounds sterling that the Sports Council had offered along with the con-tract had no bearing whatsoever on the attited towards Glendale Leisure by members of the climbing establishment.? But the unsavoury outcome regarding PyB brought a whole new meaning to the word - Charity.
As one observer wrote: 'The Charitable status confered upon them by doing it for free (?) because virtue's its own reward and by their association with the sport's representative-but-would-be-governing body in its little (?) stockade there were the ranchers of the climbing world meet on Manchester West Didsbury's Burton Road - which latter is what climbing's gone for when it starts to believe in junk and never place your unquestioning trust in Charities anyway because they have their own agendas which are sure as hell nothing to do with - charity.'
The following advert appeared in High Magazine, Oct, 1995: 'The Sports Council is tendering a management lease for the operation of Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre. Applications are invited from suitably qualified and experienced operators. The lease will be let in accordance with EC Directive 92/50 (CPC reference number 96413). All applications must be completed in the English language and financial tenders must be submitted in pounds sterling by - 12 noon on 29 September 1995.' Whilst the MMT missed the tender deadline by a mile, Ian McNaught Davis was quoted as having told people: 'Keep quite whilst delicate negotiations are taking place...' Thus, the MMT was 'set-up' to manage the Sports Council management con-tract (tender) a five year lease that has turned into a rolling con-tract beyond 2006... Plas y Brenin is now a charitable success? It would be hoped so! What with 4,000,000 pounds sterling of taxpayer's money pumped into it since 1996.
The BMG Offer world wide Mountain and Ski Guiding. Their training and international Qualification is your -safe guarantee. Along with (of course) their substantial insurance scam, er scheme.
Why chance everything on anything less?
Our logo is your guarantee.
Make sure your Guide is qualified to wear it.
Contact: BMG, Capel Curig, Gwynedd LL24 0ET Tel:01690 720 386 Fax: 01690 720 394
This BMG adverting offering false guarantees was removed from the pages of High Mountain Sport, the official magazine of the British Mountaineering Council in 1997 (by the Advertising Standards Authority) after the widow of a BMG client was finally compensated (she waited 7 years). Even then, an appeal was considered against her award...
Mountain Clients being mislead by Specialist Magazines.
For example, in the January, 2002 issue of High Mountain Sport, the 'official' magazine of the British Mountainering Council, Andy Kilpatrick has written: 'Joining the ropes', Forget all that old twaddle about joining your ropes with reef knot and double fishermans - just go for the simple overhand knot.' If a mountain guide or climbing instructer invites you to abseil from; on ropes that are tied together with just a 'simple' overhand knot, you be can be sure that he/she do not know what they are doing - get your money back. Too many clients of the Association of British Mountain Guides have been killed through basic errors, made by - 'qualified professionals'.
Journalism in Specialist climbing magazines - faultless...
In the November, 2000 issue of High Mountain Sport - now Climb Magazine), an article (aptly called High Risk and Hot Air in the website above) by Joe Simpson was printed in which he castigates press journalists for: woefully inaccurate journalism.? The butt of most of his criticism was about an article in the Daily Telegraph, which in a news story made a number of mistakes regarding three climbers who fell from the North Wall of the Eiger on the same day last September (2000), during a storm. The article: about mountianeering and journalism, is aimed soley at press journalist's. It makes no destinction between on-the-day news stories and informed investigative reporting about climbing accidents, in fact tragedies. Unfortunately, there are not many reports on why a certain accidents has happen especially, when it come's to professional mountain guides; member of the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG). Apparently, members of the BMG are in a unique position. Despite numberous fatal accidents to their clients, there is seldom any comeback on them when clients are seriously injured or - killed. There is no other profession in the world, where a client can be 'lost' and then, the member of that profession does not have to face a judicial inquiry.
In those circumstances, climbing journalists who should be encouraged to report 'all possible' details of professional climbers, have avoided their responsiblities. To the contrary, there have been any number of articles by climbing journalists castigating clients for seeking compensation; 'as advertised' by the (BMG): we have a comprehensive insurance scheme.
Any incident that effects climbers; mountain clients or otherwise, should be given accurate details in specialist magazines otherwise, it becomes unfair and adds to the prejudices of some of their less enlightened colleagues in the climbing profession.
Since a disgraceful incident at Mount Everest Base Camp which has been reported in various web-sites, interestingly, High Mountain Sport - now Climb has not taken-up, printed that information; news (finally printed in glowing terms, in fact, a free, full page advert for the Editors long standing friend, - Henry Barclay Todd). And yet, the individual involved, still placing (and being accepted) monthly adverts in High Mounntain Sport (it has since changed its name) enticing mountain clients to climb with the guide who assaulted Finn Olaf Jones. The same Everest guide (who has not been to the summit yet) now facing criminal charges regarding the Matthews families quest for the truth about their son Michael.
Finn-Olaf Jones, a mountain client on the permit of mountain guide - Todd, was attacked - by Todd (the Toddfather). Finn-Olaf an American journalist, was sending dispaches back to the Discovery.com web-site about his daily accounts of trying to climb Everest. Apparently, Finn-Olaf who had paid Todd, more than $10,000 to be included on a permit, was sending information that spoke 'only good' of Todd, in fact Finn-Olaf seems to have been in awe of Todd and certainly, he had printed nothing derogititory.
Todd's apparently, also involvement with another large group of American climbers, who 'claimed' to be sponsored by Discovery.com It was the fact that, Finn-Olaf's dispaches were annoying that large group, that for some bizzare reason (maybe someone was - on something) Todd attacked Finn-Olaf on behalf of the group of Americans.
Unable to defend himself due to the nature of the attack, Finn-Olaf received personal injuries to say nothing of the fact that his attempt on Everest had been ruined; spoilt by Todd's actions (e-mails from Finn Olaf confirm this). That many mountain guides have an 'atitude' about clients; against clients, is embodied in this particular incident. Apparently, Finn-Olaf has 30 hours of vidoe tape, witnesses and numerous witness statements to back-up his claim against being physically abused (Finn had an article published about the attack in Forbes magazine in October 2001).
It will remain to be seen, if mountain clients continue to be enticed by Todd's advertising - in High - now Climb magazine (the IGO 8000 logo appeared in Himalayan Guides advertising in the November 2001 issue of High (IGO 8000 have asked for the logo to be removed - but to be reinstated at a leter date if nothing untowards comes out of the ongoing litigation)..
Certainly, members of the BMG who have lost clients in multiple accidents are still advertising through the pages of High Mountain Sport (the official magazine of the BMC), are still working as - mountain guides. While at the same time, High Mountain Sport has interfered with, stopped; 'gotten rid of', advertisers with - perfect safety records; climbers who have a proper attitude to their clients; have the desired qualities required of an independent instructor/guide (at the time the general secretary (Dennis Gray) of the BMC was on the editorial board of - High - now High Mountain Sport).
It has taken journalist of the press, to bring to public knowledge, the numerous fatal accidents that have been allowed to happen to mountain clients. In every case; the BMG/AMI guide has survived the accident; the accident's were not - overwhelming.
Relatives of dead clients have had to go to investigative, press journalists to bring the true facts surrounding their loved ones demise out in the open. High Mountain Sport, the official magazine of the so-called British Mountaineering Council has never printed those - facts.
Likewise, potential clients looking through the Classified pages in High Mountain Sport could not pickout, know exactly which of the 'official' guides advertising there have - already lost clients in avoidable accidents. The guides to a man (bar two) survived...
On page 224 of the book: 'The First Fifty Years - of the British Mountaineering Council states: "We hope also that they (referring to the BMG) will 'never' exceed the number of the - six (now seven) members who have lost their lives.' Only one of the those seven lost his life whilst actually guiding. The BMC have never shown the same sentimentality in print, towards deceased mountain clients; clients of the BMG.
The Monopolies and Mergers Commission (Ref Cm 280), 27 November, 1987: 'A report on the matter of the existance or possible existance of a monopoly situation in relation to the supply in the United Kingdom of the services of accepting advertisements for publication in specialist magazines intended for campers, climbers and walkers.' 1) Specialist retail shops, members of the BMC, had complained about 'mail order cut-price adverts' (Field & Trek etc) which could immediately be compared with their own prices. 2) Green Publications (High Magazine) amongst others, did not wish to carry lists of unrelieved prices for mail-order firms. This would, they said, "substantialy damage the appearance of the magazine and reduce their circulation." Substantial adverting by Club Westploration (in High - now Climb Magazine) over many years, showing listed, climbing courses prices, suddenly, started to be tampered with in 1987/88 and continued until all advertising was withdrawn.
Today (2006), advertising from, for example, members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructers who do not hold a FIAMG certificate are being 'allowed' to insert 'Guiding'; offer guiding in their adverts with impunity (cronyism). Dennis Gray, of the BMC stated in 1985 that this type of advertising was not allowed; was illegal - whoever Dennis Gray was.
