Gouter ridge, Mont Blanc
A climber arriving at the Gouter Hut after climbing the 1,800ft Gouter Ridge. The Tete Rousse hut is marked with an arrow, way below. Note the none use of a safety helmet whilst climbing in such loose, lethal terrain.
A climber arriving at the Gouter Hut after climbing the 1,800ft Gouter Ridge. The Tete Rousse hut is marked with an arrow, way below. Note the none use of a safety helmet whilst climbing in such loose, lethal terrain.
Dennis Morrod pictured in a Gouter hut that was unusually empty, and nowhere near full late on the evening of the 7 August, 1986 the evening prior to the Bicentenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786. Almost everyone had been frightened away, by tales, of hordes of climbers and military personel etc., etc.
Unusually, the squalid, Vallot hut was completely empty. Normally, it has several occupants in various stages of recovery. Some people actually spend the night here even though it has been the scene of numerous tragedies... It was from this hut that Dennis Morrod took Eric back to Chamonix after sending his friend off to hospital in a rescue helicopter *they had been trapped in the hut for three days*. Sadly, Eric,s friend Roland, died in hospital.
Eight days after arriving in Chamonix, Dennis Morrod (for that is he in the white helmet) and his group of thirteen (unlucky for some) stood on the summit of Mont Blanc on the 8 August, 1986. The usually crowded summit, was virtually empty when they were there. Following a fine tradition, established by the first ascentionists, we had climbed Mont Blanc from the valley floor - from Les Houches. The descent also, back to Les Houches, was made without either train or cable-car. During that Bi/centenary summer, six further groups climbed Mont Blanc successfully walking from the valley floor and back.
Whymper would have been proud of us. Not only did we: 'look well to every step', we also distained the use of mechanised transport during our ascents. In 1986, to mark the Bicentenary year of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, Dennis Morrod and 101 Club Westploration members made seven identicle ascents of Mont Blanc walking from the - valley floor to the summit and back. On the other hand, Whyper would turn-in-his grave if knew just how callous and shabby climbing has become.
The weather remained perfect for our 3 day ascent of Mont Blanc culminating on the 8 August, 1986. At least 3,000 climbers were expected to climb the mountain - they did not arrive. The normally bursting hut was for once fairly quite.
Monsieur Charlet (in traditional dress) the amiable Mayor of Chamonix, during the towns celebrations to mark 200 years since the first ascent of Mont Blanc on the 8 August, 1786. Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe.
The French town was packed to its capacity for a week prior to the Fete du Bicentenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc. Locals Chamoniards dressed in traditional costumes for the many thousands of visitors. All roads leading into the town were finally blocked by crowds of people.
Club Westploration: We camped overnight on the ice. In the following days, we practiced crevasse rescue on / in the Mer de Glace - Valley Blanch glaciers above Chamonix in the French Alps. Mountaineering courses including Glacier Travel run from June to September. These very successful courses have been well attended since 1966. The courses end with a three day ascent of Mont Blanc. Dennis has made 132 ascents of Mont Blanc with clients, glacier instruction proceeded every summit ascent.
